The Gift, III 5.11+ 200m, West Wolf’s Ear, Valhalla’s

The Gift, Wolf’s Ears, Valhalla’s

F.A. David Lussier and Ico DeZwart, June 2008

I spent a couple of long week-ends new routing with friends in the great Mulvey group of the Valhalla Range last summer. The Valhalla range and the Valhalla Provincial Park are located in the southern Selkirk, west of Slocan Lake, in south-eastern British Columbia.

The Mulvey group is a real gem for alpine rock climbers and offers the most attractive climbing in the Valhalla range. It is composed of much aesthetic granite like spires surrounding the headwaters of beautiful Mulvey creek. Gimli peak and its classic south ridge route (III 5.9) is becoming popular and is a testimony to what lies beyond. We did our first visit in mid-June, during the father’s day long week-end.

For private guiding on this route or other unique mountain adventures around Nelson, New Denver, Kaslo, B.C. check out our climbing and mountaineering programs for guided trips and courses offered.

A History of The Gift, Wolf’s Ears, Valhalla’s

My friend Ico and I were gifted the “go ahead” from our respective families to go play in the mountains. It had been a few years since I had last been in there new routing. The excitement level about going back to some old projects was almost as high as for the new ones waiting. This time we had a very clear goal; climbing a new route on the south face of the Wolf’s Ears. These spires like peaks profile the nose and ears of a wolf’s head when viewed from the north. It is a striking formation 1.5 kilometers east of Gimli peak.

We knew that this early in the season we had to stick to dryer south facing objectives. Spring had been slow coming and there was still quite a bit of snow in the hills but the weather was promising. Skiing-in prove to be the best option since the trail was still 90% covered in snow. It made for quick and efficient travel, especially on the way out! Packs were huge for just a 3 day trip. We had all the overnight stuff, complemented by the hefty cordless hammer drill, 25 bolts, 2 racks and 2 ropes.  I had been to the base of the south face many times in search of new route options. Both the east and west ear presented good options with steep but featured looking climbing on chicken-heads and various discontinuous crack systems. After in-depth route planning, we decided to climb the south face of the west ear.

The result was more than satisfactory. After 3 days of ground up efforts we completed a very interesting and challenging new 7 pitch mixed bolt/gear route, which we called “The Gift” (III 5.11c/d). The climbing was aesthetic and exposed on solid, clean and featured rock. The bolts were generally adequately placed where no traditional gear was available. The first pitch ended up being a bit run-out at 5.8 but if you can climb the route grade this should be manageable.  We used a total of 20 3/8” stainless steel bolts/hangers, including 2 at each belay, on the first 4 pitches. The rest of the route provided easier climbing with good gear on a continuous crack/corner system.

Route Description Wolf’s Ears, South face of West Ear, The Gift, III 5.11+, 200m

P1. Start on a broad ledge system 4 meters right of an obvious diagonal dike. A bolt should be visible above the first overlap. Climb past the 1st bolt to a smaller overlap with small gear. Traverse right and up past five more well spaced bolts (some gear) to a two-bolt belay. 45m 5.8

P2. From the belay, step left and go up a right facing corner system, past two bolts to a large grassy ledge with a two-bolt belay. 26m 5.10-

P3. From the belay, go left a few meters. Climb a short steep crack to blocky terrain. Go up and left along the path of least resistance towards a skyline arête. A small crack system provides good protection. A bolt protects the reachy and technical crux through a slight bulge (Bolt is visible from the belay to the right of the arête). 5m past the crux, step left around the arête and continue up and left for a few meters to a two-bolt belay. 26m 5.11+

P4. From the belay, step right to a thin crack system (bolt). Climb the crack to a small roof. Bypass the roof to the left, where a crack system goes up and right back towards the arête. A pin near the top of the crack protects an awkward moves around the arête to a stance (and a bolt). Strenuous moves up a corner and past a small roof (bare left) lead to another bolt and easier ground with a two-bolt belay below a wide corner crack. 35m 5.11a
P5/6/7. Climb the wide crack for a few metres (5.9) then step left around the corner to avoid the roof. Climb up and right on enjoyable slabby cracks back towards the arête (5.7) where an obvious open book/corner begins. Follow this to its top (5.6) then continue along a broken ridge to the top. Belay wherever convenient.

See topo a rough printable map and details on route.The_Gift.PDF

Enjoy and ascend with respect and care…