North Ridge Bypass, IV 5.10b, Gladsheim Peak, Valhallas

North Ridge ByPass, Gladsheim Peak

F.A. David Lussier and Ramin Sherkat, August 2008

This new route, the North Ridge Bypass (also IV 5.10b), combine some fantastic clean crack climbing on the west face and the most interesting climbing of the north ridge. Alan Jones joined me summer 2003 and I was fortunate to revisit it August 2008 with Ramin Sherkat for a variation on the beautiful west face. 

The Valhalla Range and Valhalla Provincial Park are located just west of Slocan Lake in the southern Selkirk Mountains in southeastern British Columbia.
The Mulvey group is composed of aesthetic granite like spires, a gem for local alpine rock climbers and offers the most attractive climbing in the Valhalla Range.  Within this group, friends and I have put up new routes. 

For private guiding on this route or other unique mountain adventures around Nelson, New Denver, Kaslo, B.C. check out our climbing and mountaineering programs for guided trips and courses offered.

Approach to The North Ridge Bypass, Gladsheim Peak

From the upper most Mulvey Lake, hike and contour upwards towards the north north-east and scramble up to a col (grid 539148). Descend a steep but short couloir down the other side to a pocket glacier. The couloirs conditions vary from good snow to ice or even dirt depending on the season. Descend in a north easterly direction for about 200m till it is possible to wrap around a rock buttress blocking access to the upper west face of Gladsheim. To gain access to the base of the north ridge proper, descend another 350m in a northerly direction. The start of the north full ridge route climbs a distinct, loose and unpleasant west facing yellow wall to gain the ridge proper. To access the north ridge bypass, walk up a steep and crevassed pocket glacier in a southeasterly direction just around the corner from the previously mentioned rock buttress. Climb to the top left side of this pocket glacier to a gully and ledge system giving access to the upper northwest bowl and climbing route. Later in the season a large moat forms at the top of the pocket glacier.

From the upper most Mulvey Lake, hike and contour upwards towards the north north-east and scramble up to a col (grid 539148). Descend a steep but short couloir down the other side to a pocket glacier. The couloirs conditions vary from good snow to ice or even dirt depending on the season. Descend in a north easterly direction for about 200m till it is possible to wrap around a rock buttress blocking access to the upper west face of Gladsheim. To gain access to the base of the north ridge proper, descend another 350m in a northerly direction. The start of the north full ridge route climbs a distinct, loose and unpleasant west facing yellow wall to gain the ridge proper. To access the north ridge bypass, walk up a steep and crevassed pocket glacier in a southeasterly direction just around the corner from the previously mentioned rock buttress. Climb to the top left side of this pocket glacier to a gully and ledge system giving access to the upper northwest bowl and climbing route. Later in the season a large moat forms at the top of the pocket glacier.

Route description of The North Ridge Bypass IV 5.10b

Pay particular attention to the approach information above. The route starts at a vertical crack system located at the left end of a large northwest-facing bowl between the upper west ridge and north ridge. It starts a few meters right of a faint arête at the far left end of the upper west face.

P1. Climb a hand to fist crack in flaring open book providing good stemming with great gear on solid rock. Belay below a big roof with a wide crack on its left, 5.8, 30m.
P2. Climb up and right around the roof then back left on wild flakes to the main crack system above the roof with minimal gear (Easier than it looks, 5.7). Continue up a left facing corner to a small belay ledge where the crack system splits two ways. Aesthetic, interesting and somewhat sustain climbing on solid rock, 5.10a, 40m.
P3. Climb the deceivingly steep left hand crack to the north ridge, 5.9, 30m.

Upper North Ridge. From here, follow the upper north ridge to the summit. The ridge is horizontal but sharp at first.

The next significant vertical step encountered along the ridge is the crux for both the North ridge route and the Bypass route.  It features exposed arête and face climbing on or just to the left of the steep ridge crest. A bolt protects the crux face move (5.10b) near the top of this 30m pitch. From here to the top it is only just a few more mid-fifth class pitches to the top.

Gear and descent: 1 full set of cams to # 4 camalot (doubles of #0.5 to #1 are useful) 1 full set of nuts. The descent is via the regular but technical west ridge.

Enjoy and ascend with respect and care…