Megawatts, II 5.8, 280m, Castlegar, BC.

Megawatts Access, Brilliant wall, Castlegar BC

F.A.: D. Lussier, C. Trescher and S. King, Fall 2008

Megawatts is reasonably well bolted with a few easier sparse sections.  The rock quality ranges from below average to average by local standards. It improves dramatically with height and the first 2 pitches are the loosest. That being said, if it were in the Rockies, it would be considered very solid. There is still ample loose rock just outside the route perimeter so tread lightly and stay on route. Be extra careful if you are following another climbing party and rappel only if you have to. There is a perfectly good walk off, see access.

For private guiding on this route, advanced rock climbing courses, or exploring other unique rock crags and routes in around Nelson, Kaslo and Castlegar click here

Megawatts Access, Brilliant wall, Castlegar BC

To get to the climb, start by following the road signs as for the Castlegar Golf Club. Once you get on Aron road, switch you odometer to zero. Go up Aron road for 600m then turn right on a dirt road (Skattebo Reach access trail sign). Follow this really good (2W/D) dirt road all the way to the Brilliant Substation and the parking area. You must stay left at a “Y” in the road near the 2.6km mark. At 4.9km you will reach the Substation. The best parking is on the left side of the road once you have reached the Substation. Be sure to park out of the way of hydro facility and traffic.

From the parking, walk north along the east side of the substation fence. Near the end of the fence, turn right and follow a narrow dirt road up the hill to a JCT under the power lines. Turn left and walk under the power line on a narrow road for a few hundred meters to a large turn around area beside power poles. Go right (towards the cliff) and find a faint climber’s trail marked with orange flagging. Follow the trail through the forest to a lagre talus slope. Go up the loose talus slope to the base of the route (no trail yet but more orange flagging). 15min from the parking.

Megawatts, II 5.8, 280m, Route Description

Gear required: 2X 60m ropes(incl. 1 rap line),11 draws(incl. 4 long ones), Helmet, Head light, etc

Pitch 1-2 Climb a faint prow to a left trending gully system. Near the top of the 1st pitch (by the 8th bolt), go right around the steep wall with thin hands but good feet (5.8). 1st pitch: 5.8, 40m, 8 bolts. 2nd pitch: 5.7, 40m, 7bolts.

Pitch 3-4 Go left and climb a neat ridge system left of the gully. 3rd pitch: 5.4, 30m, 4 bolts. 4th pitch: 5.6, 30m, 4bolts.

Pitch 5 Go up the broadening gully for 10m. Cross this to the right then climb a shallow groove on the steep wall above. Belay on a ledge below a short overhanging wall. A long pitch with few cruxes and micro route finding.  5.8, 52m, 11bolts.

Pitch 6 Step right around the corner 5m and climb a short steep wall. Use a long draw on the 1st bolt. Continue up and left on good rock. At the 7th bolt, traverse wildly right 10m to a narrow belay stance. 5.8, 40m, 8 bolts.

Pitch 7-8 Climb up steep slabs on right side of rock scar to a ledge beside a large pine tree. There is a neat juggy 5.8 roof on the 7th pitch. 7th pitch: 5.8, 30m, 6 bolts. 8th pitch: 5.5, 25m, 5 bolts.

Scramble to the top: 

From the top of pitch 8, scramble up a rock and sand groove for about 40m to a steeper 10m rock band. Climb the rock band (5.2) following line of least resistance. Look for a piton on the way and a single bolt at the top for belaying. From here, walk to the top of the Brilliant overlook.

See printable topo for more information:Topo.pdf

Enjoy and ascend with respect and care…